1968 Ford Mustang: The Final Drive and it's Future

We take the 1968 Mustang coupe out for it's final drive of the season and reflect on the first year of ownership. I also clue you in on the plans for next season and what we are going to do over the the winter.


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A transcript, created by AI and edited by a staffer, is below.

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Transcript:

Hey there. It’s late fall in central Pennsylvania and I’m about to take the ’68 Mustang out for its last drive of the season. I thought I’d bring you along and show some of the parts I’ll be collecting over the winter so everything is ready to go once spring arrives.

If you live somewhere that gets freezing temperatures, now is the time to bring anything water-based indoors. Paints, spray bottles, chemicals, and aerosol cans can freeze and become ruined, so I store them in the basement during the winter. I recommend doing the same.

When I buy a classic car, I have a few things I want it to do for me. With this 1968 Mustang coupe, I wanted something that reminded me of the cars I grew up with but was still easy and relaxing to drive. It needed to be quick enough to keep up with traffic without needing to be fast, and comfortable enough to drive for six to eight hours without feeling like work. I also wanted something simple to work on and improve slightly without requiring a full restoration. I wanted a car I could take on long back-road cruises with friends and feel proud driving. This Mustang checks those boxes.

Back in the garage, here’s the factory Ford under-dash A/C unit. It’s all original from 1968, but it needs to be cleaned, inspected, and refreshed. I have the condenser, compressor, and other components off to the side. All of the lines and major parts will be replaced, and while everything is apart, I’ll take the opportunity to clean up the radiator support. The original hardware will likely just be cleaned and reinstalled, and I’ll touch up the support with some fresh paint.

The radiator is coming out, and I’ll be installing a Be Cool unit, which is now available in black. While I’m in there, I’ll also clean up the voltage regulator. It’s the original one and still works, so we’ll see how it turns out once cleaned.

Some decals will be replaced, especially the ones that are badly deteriorated, like the battery decal. Others, like the valve cover decal, are still presentable and will stay as they are. General cleanup around the engine bay will be easier once the radiator is removed. I’ll also replace the improvised mounting bracket with the correct one when the new radiator goes in.

That wraps up 2025 for the Mustang. It’s always a little sad putting the car away for winter, but that’s the season. I disconnect the positive battery cable to help the battery last longer. Now is the time to order parts, stack them up, and tackle the front of the car all at once in the spring.

If you enjoyed this episode, click like and consider subscribing. I have over 200 videos on Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury products available on the channel. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you next time.

Tony's Fords and Mustangs | TTAC Creator
Tony's Fords and Mustangs | TTAC Creator

Tony has been a member of the car culture since the late 1970s, acquiring his first car at the age of 13 in a straight-up swap for a Schwinn 10-speed bicycle. He has personally owned well over 500 cars and trucks since that first car. He was employed as a jet engine Mechanic by the US Air Force for over 10 years and served in theater during Desert Storm. He has always wrenched on his own vehicles. In the Fall of 2021 he launched his own YouTube channel that focuses on Ford Motor Company products, both old and new, however other manufacturers product will appear from time to time. New content and videos are posted every Saturday Morning at 11 AM EST

More by Tony's Fords and Mustangs | TTAC Creator

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  • Normie Normie on Nov 20, 2025

    "Tony's Fords and Mustangs"

    How about a 1960 Starliner?

  • Mnemic Mnemic on Nov 22, 2025

    Knew a kid in the 90's that had the same car, even the same dark green color. It was a 289 / auto. Car looked and sounded great (it had wide cragars on all 4 corners), but was slow. It should have been able to run right along with the 5.0L's of the day but got gapped by bus lengths. Rather than make it quicker he sold it and bought a 93 5.0L LX notch instead. The green 68 ended up with another young guy that appreciated it more and he probably still has it.

  • Peeryog Everytime I see one I am reminded of the current Santa Fe. And vice versa.
  • Original Guy I watched that Moscow parade thing. (With the Cyrillic captions because my Russian is a little rough.) I won't give the whole thing away, but it started off with a couple of dudes riding around in stupid useless convertibles, standing up like Hitler, who I'm pretty sure was an actual Nazi. They drove around in circles and kept stopping to ask if anyone had seen all the missing military equipment, and all the guys kept moaning back, that no, they hadn't, ask the next section of guys.They looked around for someone shorter and sicker-looking than Putin but they were unsuccessful so they let him speak.The North Korean military was there, I guess the invasion has begun. The North Korean guys were skinny but their rifles were nicely polished, I guess they have plenty of time on their hands between meals.Some of the Russian military guys carried little white flags, I assume they keep those handy in case they run across any U.S. Marines.
  • Marc J Rauch EBFlexing on ur mom - Ethanol is compatible with more types of rubber, plastic, and metal than gasoline and aromatics. This means that ethanol is less corrosive. The bottom line is that long before ethanol could have any damaging effect on any engine component, gasoline and aromatics would have already damaged the components. And the addition of ethanol doesn't exacerbate the problems caused by gasoline and aromatics; it actually helps mitigate them.
  • Original Guy Today I learned that a reverse brake bleeder (and a long borescope) can be helpful if you are autistic and don't have any friends and no one wants to work with you to bleed your brakes. Also it is quick, once you figure out the process.When Canada assembled my truck back in circa 1995, they apparently used a different clip to attach the brake pedal (and switch) to the brake booster than what is technically called for. It is tough to realize this when the spring steel clip flies off to who knows where. Of course I ordered the wrong clip trying to match the style that I saw buried up in the dash before it flew away. My truck now has the 'correct' clip, everyone can relax.I ordered some more brake fluid (DOT 3, nothing fancy) but it turns out I still have two fresh bottles (my shelves aren't empty, I just have too many shelves).Went to install my fancy new Optima YellowTop battery and it turns out I need a new side post terminal bolt. (Yet another order placed, bring on THE TARIFFS.) It would be a shame to strip out the threads on a nice new battery, no?Good news: The longer it takes me to get my truck started again, the more I save on fuel. 😁
  • Normie Weekends here would be a great time for everyone to join in praise of dog dish hubcaps on body-color matched steelies!
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